When you think of Iceland, the first thing that comes to mind is its otherworldly landscapes: towering waterfalls, black sand beaches, endless glaciers, moss-covered lava fields, hot springs bubbling up from the ground as if the country were alive.
All of that is true. Iceland is one of the most visually stunning places I have ever been. But once you get past the excitement of the first few days, you start to notice other things. Things that make the experience, to say the least, contradictory.
The landscape, while beautiful, can also be hostile. There are no trees, no shade, no shelter. The feeling of being in the middle of nowhere is constant, which can be magical or uncomfortable, depending on the day (and the weather). In my case, I missed seeing trees and being in the middle of the forest.
The weather is changeable and dangerous. In a matter of minutes, you go from sunshine to hurricane-force winds, then rain, then sunshine again, and suddenly you’re hit by a hailstorm. There is an Icelandic website to check the weather by area, but it didn’t work during our stay.
Driving can be dangerous because of the weather conditions and especially because of the wind. We saw many overturned or crashed cars.
The practical experience of traveling around Iceland is far from the ideal of freedom and unspoiled nature that many travel guides sell. You can’t stop to sleep wherever you want because everything is closed and guarded. You can only spend the night at authorized campsites, and “camping in nature” is actually sleeping in a vulgar parking lot. Most campsites were just that: parking lots with questionable bathrooms, no basic cleaning, showers that sometimes had to be paid for, and an atmosphere of “organized overcrowding” that had little to do with the idea of connecting with nature.
When it comes to accommodation in general, outside of Reykjavik, there are hostels or guesthouses with absurd prices for the quality they offer. Uncomfortable beds, shared showers, dirty kitchens, paper-thin walls, and yet I saw prices reaching €900 per night.
But perhaps what shocked me the most was the privatization of nature. In many places, you must pay €7 to park, even if you’re only staying for 10 minutes to see a waterfall or a beach. Or you must pay an entrance fee to see a volcano on the outskirts of Reykjavik.
There are places where they charge you to walk along a nature trail. Some had graffiti where people complained about prices.
It reminded me too much of the practices I criticize in Latin America, where they sell you access to a river or a beach as if it were private property. I was surprised to see the same thing here, in a supposedly model country.
Although there are ways not to pay – such as parking further away – you realize that they are preparing all the free parking lots to start charging there as well. Everything is expanding: we saw hotels under construction, new parking lots, restaurants being built everywhere. Tourism in Iceland is growing at a rapid pace.
Another thing that shocked us a lot were the supermarkets. Not only because the prices were astronomical (the first purchase for two days: 130 €), but because the supply was very limited. In addition, they opened very late, at 10 or 11 in the morning. Nothing to do with Spain or Portugal.
Getting around Iceland has its own thing. There are many one-way bridges and tunnels, without traffic lights. Which seemed very strange to me in a country that, in theory, is the “first world”.
Since we’re talking about the Icelandic model, I also want to tell you a few things about how Iceland works as a country.
100% renewable energy
Iceland produces virtually all of its electricity from renewable sources: 73–75% comes from hydroelectric power and another 25–27% from geothermal energy. In addition, nearly 90% of homes are heated by geothermal energy distributed through the grid.
The country is a world leader in clean energy per capita, with more than 55,000 kWh per person per year. It is admirable to see how a country has been able to take advantage of its volcanic location to live with an almost zero energy footprint.
You can see steam coming out of the ground in a thousand places, there are natural hot springs everywhere, and the hot water smells like rotten eggs because of the sulfur.
Real and visible gender equality
Iceland is not only an example in environmental terms, but also in terms of equality. Since 2009, there has been a government with gender parity, there are mandatory quotas for the presence of women in companies, and public offices are full of female faces.
In 2023, more than 100,000 women joined a general strike for equal pay and to demand measures against gender violence. Even the prime minister participated.
The country actively promotes solidarity among women, moving away from competitive “girlboss” feminism and fostering real support networks. There are still inequalities, such as in the technology sector or among immigrant women, but in general, there is a much more egalitarian atmosphere than in other parts of Europe.
Prostitution: abolitionist model
Since 2009, it has been illegal to pay for sex in Iceland. The model is abolitionist: the client is punished, but not the person in prostitution. Brothels, strip clubs, and any lucrative activity related to prostitution are also prohibited.
There are feminist groups that even organize themselves to monitor and report buyers. I’m not saying that prostitution doesn’t exist, but I am saying that the approach is the right one: to place the responsibility on the exploiter, not on the victim.
Public healthcare with nuances
Iceland has a public healthcare system that covers the entire population, but it is not 100% free. There are co-payments for doctor’s visits, medication, and tests, with monthly caps based on age and condition.
For example, an adult can end up paying up to €180 per month in medical copayments before the system covers the rest. I think this is a negative point, because public healthcare should be completely free if we are already paying for it with our taxes. In addition, tourists or people who have been residents for less than six months are not covered.
Tourism with animals: what I didn’t expect
In Iceland, there is still tourism involving animals. The most common are horseback riding excursions with Icelandic horses, which are highly valued for their smooth gait. But I was shocked to see how, in a country so advanced in other areas, this is still so normalized.
There are also tours to see seals, birds, and other animals, although that may have less impact if done properly.
A curious detail: In summer they release the sheep to graze freely throughout the island, and then in winter they collect them. They are not free, but for a few months they roam freely.
Legislation and current legal framework
Iceland has Act No. 55 on animal welfare (Act No. 55/2013), which establishes that animals are sentient beings and prohibits their mistreatment, guaranteeing adequate care, good nutrition, appropriate environment, transport, hunting, slaughter, etc. It includes legal responsibilities and penalties.
There are multiple specific regulations: on marine mammals (2021), horses (2014), pigs (2015), sheep, cattle, poultry, and polluting peat, among others.
Controversial activities under review
Blood extraction from pregnant mares (PMSG)
Until November 2023, Iceland acknowledged that it was violating European legislation (Directive 2010/63/EU) by collecting blood from pregnant mares to obtain the hormone PMSG used in intensive piglet breeding.
It committed to reforming the regulation before 2025, and until then maintained up to 8 extractions per pregnancy—contrary to animal welfare standards. Experts and local NGOs are pushing for its permanent closure.
Whaling and animal welfare
Iceland once again allowed commercial whaling, granting a license in 2024 to kill up to 128 fin whales, compared to 264 in 2023, under the argument of sustainable use.
Whaling was briefly suspended in 2023 after a report found that many whales took longer than allowed to die; however, the practice resumed with stricter rules.
International NGOs accuse Iceland of ignoring public opposition (a poll put opposition at 51%) and damaging its reputation as a country that respects the environment and animal welfare.
Although Iceland has modern legislation and several agencies and organizations working to support animal welfare, controversial practices such as whaling and mare blood hunting persist. These issues highlight tensions between legal regulation, growing public pressure, and historical practices that are still in place.